All about care and maintenance of carpet, laminate, hardwood and other floor species.
What are the advantages of hardwood flooring?
- Longevity – When properly cared for, hardwood flooring can last 35-100 years.
- Easy Maintenance – Hardwood flooring is one of the easiest floor coverings to maintain, generally only requiring a damp dust mop with an approved cleaner.
- Increased Resell Value – Properties with hardwood flooring sell faster and for higher prices than those with other floor coverings.
- Improved Air Quality – Hardwood flooring is the perfect choice for those with allergies as it greatly reduces the overall air impurities in your home or office.
- A Renewable Resource – Wood is a renewable resource and many exotic woods come from forests that are certified as sustainable.
What are the advantages of carpet?
- Noise Reduction – Carpet absorbs sound, creating a peaceful environment.
- Increased Safety – Carpet lessens the chances of a slip-and-fall accident, as well as providing a cushion when items are dropped.
- Multitude of Décor Choices – Carpet is one of the most versatile choices you can make when it comes to decorating your home or office.
- Durability – Most carpets today have stain-resistant treatments, which will keep these floor coverings looking great for many years.
What are the advantages of laminate flooring?
- Very Durable – Laminate flooring is resistant to spills, stains and heavy traffic.
- Authentic Appearance – Laminate flooring looks like hardwood and offers a variety of finishes, colors and grains.
- Easy to Install – Laminate flooring is a floating floor system, so it is not attached to the subfloor. It requires a simple locking system.
- Easy Maintenance – A damp dust mop and an occasional approved cleaner are all you’ll need to keep your laminate floors looking terrific.
What are the benefits of tile flooring?
- Increased Value to Your Property – Tile flooring adds value to your home or office because of its impressive presentation and attractive style.
- Easy maintenance – Ceramic and porcelain tiles resist stains and can be cleaned with a sponge or mop and a variety of household cleaners.
- Durable – When the correct tile flooring product is chosen for the amount of expected traffic, ceramic and porcelain tiles will continue to look fantastic year after year.
- Versatility – There is a wide variety of options when it comes to colors, patterns, textures and styles for your tile flooring.
How do you maintain hardwood floors properly?
Hardwood flooring requires little in day-to-day maintenance other than a simple dust mop with an approved cleaner. Avoid using a damp mop, as water will cause damage. Never use a vinyl or tile floor care product on hardwood flooring. When needed, a liquid wax approved for hardwood flooring may be used, but most people find this is only needed once or twice a year. Rugs and mats may be used to protect hardwood flooring from scratches in areas of high traffic. Proper care and maintenance will help ensure your hardwood floor always looks its best, while making sure your investment continues to appreciate in value. Here are some care and maintenance pointers.
- Once a week or so, vacuum, sweep or dust mop your floor. Do this more often if you think it’s needed. Make sure your vacuum head is brush or felt. A wand attachment is preferable. Don’t use vacuums with beater bars or hard heads. A hardwood floor swivel-head mop with a microfiber cover also works well to eliminate fine particles of grit and dirt that can act like sandpaper on hardwood floors.
- Spills and tracked-in dirt should be wiped up immediately. For spot cleaning, use a cleaner specifically intended for a hardwood floor with your selected finish, according to the manufacturer’s directions Periodically, as necessary, thoroughly clean your floor with a cleaner specifically intended for hardwood floors with your selected finish, according to the manufacturer’s directions.
- Never clean or wet mop with water. Water can permanently damage your floor.
- Never apply wax treatments to a urethane-coated floor.
- Never use any of the following products (or products similar in nature) on your floor: ammonia-based cleaners, acrylic finishes, wax-based products, detergents, bleach, polishes, oil soap, abrasive cleaning soaps, or acidic materials such as vinegar. Many of these products can pit or etch your floor’s finish and inhibit the effectiveness of recommended maintenance products.
- Interior and exterior doormats are a good idea at all entrances to collect dirt and moisture and prevent them from being tracked onto the floor.
- Area rugs cut down on wear in front of the kitchen sink, at “pivot points” and in high-traffic areas. Use rugs made of a breathable material to prevent moisture entrapment. Don’t use rugs with solid rubber or vinyl backings.
- Don’t damage your floor with shoes that have heel taps or sharp objects protruding from the sole such as rocks, exposed nails and gravel.
- Avoid walking on your floor with spike-heeled shoes. If you must, be sure to properly maintain your spike or stiletto high heels to minimize potential damage from the steel heel support.
- Keep animal nails trimmed to minimize finish scratching.
- Don’t roll or slide heavy objects directly on your floor. When moving appliances or heavy furniture, lay a solid protective covering on your floor and gently “walk” the item across it. Carpet or cardboard doesn’t adequately protect against surface compression scratches.
- Use furniture leg protector pads under all furniture and make sure to keep them clean and well maintained.
- Replace hard, narrow furniture rollers with wide rubber rollers.
- Keep the relative humidity in your home between 35% and 55%.
- Protect your floor from direct sunlight. Use curtains and UV-resistant film on large glass doors and windows.
Floor First Aid
- For spots caused by food, water or animals, use a cleaner specifically intended for hardwood floors, according to the manufacturer’s directions.
- For grease, lipstick, crayon, ink and rubber heel marks, use a cleaner specifically intended for hardwood floors, according to the manufacturer’s directions.
- For chewing gum and candle wax, apply ice in a sealed plastic bag to the top of the gum or wax deposit. Wait until the deposit becomes brittle enough to crumble off. After removal, clean the entire area with a cleaner specifically intended for hardwood floors with your selected finish, according to the manufacturer’s directions.
- For minor abrasions and scratches, use a touch-up kit specifically intended for hardwood floors, according to the manufacturer’s directions, to make minor repairs.
- For chips, broken edges and gaps, use a touch-up pen or fill stick specifically intended for hardwood floors, according to the manufacturer’s directions.
- For deep scratches and gouges, individual boards can be replaced, as necessary.
Caring For Your Hardwood FloorCaring for your new Hardwood Floor with the Bona Hardwood Floor Car Cleaning System is as easy as 1… 2… 3…
- Vacuum, Sweep or Dry Mop: The best method of removing dirt, dust and grit from your floor is by using the Bona Microplus Dusting Pad. You can also vacuum with a soft brush attachment. If using the Bona MicroPlus mop to dry mop, remove any loose dirt or grit after dry-mopping by either vacuuming it clean or rinsing with water and wringing out the mop pad prior to cleaning the floor with Bona® Swedish Formula® Hardwood Floor Cleaner.
- Spray: Lightly mist a 4′ X 6′ area of your floor or directly mist the cleaning pad with the Bona Swedish Formula® Hardwood Floor Cleaner.
- Clean: Using a slightly dampened, well wrung-out Bona MicroPlus cleaning pad, thoroughly clean the floor surface using your Bona MicroPlus mop. Finish one area before moving on to the next.
What is the difference between Hardwood and Engineered Hardwood?
Hardwood and engineered hardwood share various similarities and differences. The main thing that they have in common is that they are both made with 100% real wood, and offer tremendous aesthetic appeal. However, their essential differences are in how they are constructed, their stability & durability, and installation methods. Construction: Solid hardwood floors are made from single wooden planks made of 100% real wood. In contrast, engineered hardwood floors are made using thin layers of derivative wood products – such as plywood. The top layer of engineered hardwood floors, however, is made of 100% real wood, so they are indistinguishable from solid hardwood when installed. The implications in their construction methods are on how they can be installed, as well as their durability & stability. Stability & Durability: Both types of hardwood are highly stable and durable. However, the main differentiation is in how well they can withstand moisture & humidity. Generally, engineered hardwood can withstand humidity better than solid hardwood, in that they are less likely to shrink and expand in humid conditions. Engineered floors are better for use in settings with more moisture, which make them more suitable for spaces that are below grade. Installation: Engineered hardwood floors are much more versatile and flexible in regards to installation. They can be installed using various methods including nailing, stapling, glueing, and floating installation. In comparison, solid hardwood is generally installed using the nailing method. As a result, engineere hardwood floors are more suitable for DIY projects.
What is the difference between Laminate and Engineered Hardwood?
The primary difference between laminate and engineered hardwood flooring is the type of material that they’re made of. Laminate is a synthetic composite made of several layers of compressed materials. In comparison, engineered hardwood is made of real solid hardwood, with layers of derivative wood products underneath. In terms of appearance, both are very attractive options. Many laminate flooring products are made to look largely like real wood. There are also continuous developments in making laminate that appears even more natural. Engineered hardwood, on the other hand, offers the classic appearance of real wood – which is highly sought out among many. Although both can be done in DIY project, laminate installation is generally preferred by those who want to install the floors themselves. Laminate planks interlock between themselves, making it easy for floating installations. Engineered hardwood floors however can be installed by those who are willing to spend the time and are comfortable with using the additional power tools needed. Lastly, one of the key differences between laminate and engineered hardwood flooring are the costs. Laminate flooring is generally much cheaper than engineered hardwood flooring, which is generally much more expensive to manufacture. These are the fundamental differences between the two types of flooring. If you want to go for a cheaper option that’s easier to install yourself, laminate flooring is a great option. If you want to go for the more sophisticated timeless option, then engineered hardwood is the preferred option.
What sizes do hardwood floors come in?
Hardwood floors come in various shapes and sizes. However, the most important dimensions for floors are their width and thickness. Common flooring widths
- 2 ¼ inch
- 3 ¼ inch
- 4 inch
- 5 inch
- 6 inch
- ⅜ inch
- ½ inch
- ⅝ inch
What Is Engineered Hardwood?
The term engineered simply refers to the process in which this type of hardwood is made. It is not solid wood, engineered hardwood has a makeup similar to plywood with the top layer being real hardwood. It is made of various thin wood layers that are laminated and glued together in a cross ply construction to form a single wood board. A thin layer of hardwood called a veneer is then glued down on the top surface of the board. This top layer can vary from 1/16th to 3/16ths in thickness. The thicker the layer, the more times it can be sanded. Like solid hardwood, engineered hardwood comes in a variety of wood species, grains, widths, lengths and colours. You can purchase it prefinished meaning that the sanding, staining and finish coats are applied at the factory or you could opt for unfinished engineered wood that is sanded, stained (if requested) and finish coated on site in your home.
Looks and Feels Like Solid HardwoodRegardless of what you choose once installed engineered hardwood will have the look and feel of solid hardwood with one unique advantage. If ever the moisture levels in the air above or subfloor below increase or decrease, solid hardwood will expand called cupping or shrink, causing gaps between the boards. Engineered hardwoods configuration of layered wood, glued to each other in opposing directions gives added strength and stability which counteracts movement, making engineered an ideal choice for installation over, below grade concrete or radiant heating. It should be noted that Engineered hardwood though similar in construction is not the same as Laminate flooring. The difference is evident in the surface layer. Engineered hardwoods top layer is 100% real hardwood that can be refinished whereas Laminate flooring is not wood. As such in the case of water damage Laminate cannot be refinished or repaired, it must be completely replaced.
What Is Prefinished Hardwood?
Unlike unfinished hardwood that is sanded, stained and finish coated on site in your home, Prefinished hardwood has been sanded and finish coated at the factory. Although the urethane factory finishes are very durable, prefinished floors still dent and scratch like other types of hardwood floors. Prefinished hardwood can usually be refinished unless the wear layer (the top layer of hardwood) is a 1/16th of an inch or less. Prefinished hardwood ranges in size, typically 2 to 4 inches in width and anywhere from 1 to 6 ft in length with a 1/16th-1/4 of an inch wear layer. It comes available in almost any local or exotic wood species. Prefinished hardwood also comes in two varieties, solid hardwood and engineered. Engineered hardwood differs from solid hardwood in that its core is made from layers of wood glued together to form a single board. A thin layer of hardwood is then added to the top of the board.
Slight Grooves Between Each PlankWhen considering the style of prefinished hardwood there is one thing to keep in mind. Typical prefinished hardwood has small beveled edges on each side. The result is slight grooves between each plank. Depending on their depth, in a high traffic environment such as the entrance to your home these bevels can become dirt traps that may be difficult to keep clean. If this is a concern for you then we suggest you go with either an unfinished floor that is site sanded flat with no visible bevels, or a square edge click together floor that has no noticeable bevel. One definite advantage of choosing prefinished hardwood over unfinished hardwood is the time it takes to install. Unfinished wood floors need to be sanded, stained, finished and then require additional time to dry before you can walk on them, this is a lengthy process that can take up to a week to complete depending on the square footage of your floors. On the other hand Pre-finished hardwood is easier and faster to install and can be walked on immediately after installation. If you require more information on prefinished hardwood please get in contact with us and will be more than happy to answer all of your questions and help you decide what type of wood floors is best for you.
What is Unfinished Hardwood?
Unfinished hardwood is solid hardwood that is just that “unfinished”. Unlike prefinished hardwood that has had the finish applied at the factory, the sanding and finishing will take place in your home after the hardwood is installed. This gives you a blank canvas to create a wood floor that’s unique to your own individual style. You get to choose the species and grade of wood. You get to decide the colour and the sheen level of your floor, from matt to glossy. Unfinished hardwood is available in top nailed and tongue and groove configurations. Top nailed flooring is installed as it’s sounds with nails on the top of the boards. Top nailed floors have a more traditional look and have been a popular choice in flooring since the end of the 19-century. Their thickness is 5/16 when new and is most commonly comes in widths of ¾ to 2″ inches. Lengths vary from 1 foot to 12 feet, allowing the wood pattern to flow randomly throughout the floor. Often top nailed floors will have Walnut or Mahogany borders made into intricate designs in the corners of the room. Tongue and Groove floors are fitted and then nailed together, the main difference being that you do not see the nails in a Tongue and Groove floor. Tongue and Groove floors are usually 2 ¼ to 3 ¼ in width but you can get them in 1 ½ to 8 inch widths. Both options when properly installed and finished will give you a long lasting stunning wood floor.
Benefits Of Unfinished HardwoodBesides the ability to customize every aspect of your wood floor, unfinished hardwood has many other benefits that are worth considering. The first being its aesthetic look. Pre-finished hardwood has tiny beveled edges on either side of the board. This means that when the boards are butted up tight against one another there will be tiny visible gap or seem between each board. Unfinished hardwood is sanded flat removing the gap, which gives a more solid consistent look to your floor. Another benefit of unfinished hardwood is that it is easy to repair. As durable as hardwood is, it is not bullet proof. Floor boards can be gouged, scratched or stained requiring repairs. If this has taken place to a pre-finished hardwood floor it is almost impossible to repair the floorboard by simply refinishing the damaged area this is because the factory applied finish is very difficult to colour match. The only real solution is to cut the damaged planks out of the floor and replace them with new ones. Unfinished hardwood will need replacement only if a floorboard has been cracked or if your floor has experienced extreme damaged caused by fire or flooding. In every other instance unfinished hardwood can be fixed by sanding the damaged area, staining it to match if needed and adding a couple coats of finish to ensure that the floor is properly protected.
What type of finishing do engineered hardwood floors use?
The finishing is the top layer of the floor, which typically helps protect the floor, as well as enhance the grain and appearance. It can bring out completely different looks, including shiny and matte finishes.
Water-Based PolyurethaneThe most popular type of hardwood finishes is water-based polyurethane. This type typcically leaves a clear glossy finish that is suitable for most spaces. However, this type of flooring can have the effect of bringing out any scratches that the floor endures.
WaxWax is the preferred finish for achieving exceptional protection. It is known to be embodied by a warm and soft tone.
ShellacShellac is a common finishing used to make a high-gloss appearance. When applied, it usually dries with an orange tint, giving interesting character to the hardwood.
Aluminum OxideThis is one of the most durable finishes that can last dozens of years. It is one of the preferred finishes for engineered hardwood floors, which have a thinner veneer that isn’t optimal for refinishing.
How do you maintain laminate floors properly?
Laminate flooring is about as close to a maintenance-free floor as you will find. Use a dry or slightly damp dust mop and dry with a clean, cotton cloth. Never wax, polish or steam clean a laminate flooring product. Vacuums may be used, but avoid those with a “beater bar,” as these may damage your laminate flooring. Routine Laminate Floor Care and Maintenance Recommended:
- Sweep or vacuum using the wand attachment, then follow with Armstrong recommended floor care products.
- For spills, just wipe up with a cloth or sponge.
- Allow time for floor to dry after washing.
- Immediately wipe up wet areas from spills, foreign substances, or wet feet.
- Use soap-based detergents or “mop and shine” products, as these may leave a dull film on your laminate floor.
- Use abrasive cleaners, steel wool, or scouring powder, which can scratch your floor. And, in very sandy areas or at the beach, sweep or vacuum regularly.
- Wax or polish your floor.
How do you clean carpet?
General Stain Removal Instructions
- Scrape: Remove as much of food spills as possible by scraping gently with a spoon or dull knife.
- Absorb: Absorb wet spills as quickly as possible by blotting repeatedly with white paper or cloth towels.
- Blot: Always blot; never rub or scrub abrasively, as a fuzzy area may result. When blotting, work from the outer edge in toward the center of the spot to avoid spreading the spill.
- Weight: Remove remaining moisture by placing several layers of white towels over the spot and weigh them down with a heavy object that will not transfer color, such as a plastic jug of water.
Stain Removal/Cleaning Solutions
Spot RemovalShaw’s R2X® Stain & Soil Remover is recommended for all types of spot cleaning and is available from your floor covering retailer or through www.shawfloors.com. It is approved under the Carpet and Rug Institute’s (CRI) Seal of Approval certification. Additional cleaning products in the CRI certification program are listed at www.carpet-rug.org. Do not use any household cleaners other than those listed in this program, since many household products contain chemicals that may permanently damage your carpet. If one of the recommended products is not readily available you may use the guidelines below:
- Detergent: Mix 1/4 teaspoon clear hand dish-washing detergent with 1 cup warm, not hot, water. Use a clear, non-bleach liquid dishwashing detergent such as Dawn, Joy, or clear Ivory.
- Hydrogen Peroxide/Ammonia: Mix 1/2 cup hydrogen peroxide (3% solution available in drug stores) with one teaspoon undiluted, unscented, clear (non-sudsy) household ammonia. Use within two hours of mixing.
- Solvent: Liquid, non-oily, non-caustic type sold for spot removal from garments. Use products for grease, oil, and tar removal such as Carbona and Afta. Do not apply directly to carpet to prevent carpet damage. (See Procedure A.)
Stain Removal Procedures
Reminder: With any stain, scrape or blot up excess spill prior to procedure. Always follow up with water to remove detergent residue that may become sticky and cause rapid resoiling.
Procedure A:Apply solvent to dry towel/cloth. Blot, don’t rub. Repeat application if necessary. Follow with Procedure B.
Procedure B:Apply detergent solution (see “Cleaning Solutions”) using a damp towel. Blot, don’t rub. Use a fresh, damp cloth towel to remove all detergent residue. Blot; finish with pad of paper towels weighted with a heavy object such as a jug of water or glass baking dish. If any stain remains, repeat.
Procedure D:Apply detergent solution (see “Cleaning Solutions”) using a damp towel. Blot, don’t rub. Use a fresh, damp cloth towel to remove all detergent residue. If spot remains, apply ammonia/water solution (see “Cleaning Solutions”) using a damp towel. Blot, don’t rub. Apply white vinegar (undiluted), only after stain is removed. Apply water rinse with a damp towel. Blot; finish with weighted pad of towels.
Procedure G:Freeze with ice cubes. Shatter with blunt object such as a butter knife or back of spoon. Remove chips before they melt. If color remains, follow with solvent (Procedure A).
Procedure L:Apply solvent remover (non-oily acetone type) to a white, cotton towel and apply to spill. Do not saturate carpet. Pick up softened material using a clean, white paper towel, push toward center of the spot (to avoid spreading material). Repeat above to soften and carefully remove a layer of the material each time. Haste may spread the stain and/or damage the carpet. Follow with Procedure B. If spot remains, apply ammonia solution using a damp cloth. Blot, don’t rub. Apply white vinegar (undiluted), only after stain is removed. Apply water rinse with a damp towel. Blot; finish with weighted pad of towels.
Procedure M:Apply detergent solution (see “Cleaning Solutions”) to white towel, leave 3-5 minutes. Blot, don’t rub. If stain is removed, finish with a water rinse, then blot, then apply a pad of weighted paper towels. If stain is not removed, continue as follows: Apply ammonia solution using a damp cloth. Blot, don’t rug. Apply hydrogen peroxide solution (see “Cleaning Solutions”), let stand 2-3 hours under a weighted sheet of plastic wrap. Repeat application of hydrogen peroxide and allow to dry until removal is complete. Apply white vinegar only after stain is removed. Apply water with damp towel. Blot and dry with weighted pad of paper towels.
Procedure O:Cover with white cotton towel or brown paper. Lightly apply warm iron to towel or paper until material is absorbed. Be sure towel is large enough to cover the stained area. Never touch the iron directly onto the carpet, as the fiber may melt Change towel or rotate same towel to a clean area and repeat until all material is absorbed.
Procedure P:Vacuum as much as possible. Loosen remaining material by tapping with a scrub brush or toothbrush. Tap with brush, do not scrub. Vacuum again. If stain remains, use detergent solution in Procedure B. Clean Most Frequently Used Areas More Often: The most frequently used areas of your carpet — entrances, doorways, traffic lanes, seating areas, etc. will collect dirt much faster than other areas. By cleaning these areas when they first show signs of soiling you can prevent the dirt from spreading to the rest of the carpeted areas of the house. Professional Cleaning: Periodic professional cleaning of the overall carpet is highly recommended. The frequency of overall cleaning may vary depending on the level and type of traffic and the conditions to which your carpet is exposed. This may range from as little as 6 months to 24 months between cleanings. Your carpet should be properly cleaned at least once every 24 months to maintain its appearance and useful life. Shaw recommends only hot water extraction, utilizing carpet cleaning products, equipment, and systems certified through the Carpet and Rug Institute’s Seal of Approval Program. These products are listed at www.carpet-rug.org.
Warning: Nonapproved cleaning products and topical treatments, applied by you or by a professional carpet cleaner, may result in damage to your carpet that will not be covered by your warranty. Shaw recommends that professional service be performed by an IICRC certified firm. Locate a professional cleaner through the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC) at 1-800-835-4624 or www.iicrc.org. Cleaning by other professional services may result in damage that will not be covered by your warranty.Do-it-yourself Systems If you decide to rent a steam cleaning machine and do it yourself, remember recommended carpet cleaning equipment and cleaning products should have certification in the CRI Seal of Approval Programs (www.carpet-rug.org). Guide materials from: Shaw Floors P.O. Drawer 2128 Dalton, GA 30722-2128 shawfloors.com
Preventive MaintenanceProtecting your investment is up to you… Like other fine furnishings, carpet requires proper care, and you should reference your residential warranty for specific care requirements. There are also a few simple steps you can take to insure the lasting beauty of your new carpet: Keep the dirt/soil out. Use walk-off mats at entrances and other areas to keep outside dirt and moisture from being tracked onto the carpet. Clean mats frequently. Keep your sidewalks and entrances free of excessive dirt. The best way to reduce dirt accumulation and prolong the life of your carpet is to vacuum, vacuum, vacuum! Most dirt, even dust, is in the form of hard particles. When left in the carpet, these gritty, sharp particles abrade the pile as effectively as sandpaper. How frequently should you vacuum? That depends on the amount of foot traffic and household soil to which your carpet is exposed. More use means more frequent vacuuming. Shaw recommends a vacuum cleaner with a rotating brush or “brush/beater bar” to agitate the pile and mechanically loosen soil particles. The exception to this is for shag styled products with longer yarns which might tend to wrap around a rotating brush. For these styles we recommend a suction-only vacuum. Also, be aware that some vacuums have overly aggressive action which may damage the surface of your carpet. An inexpensive, less efficient vacuum can remove surface dirt but will not effectively remove the hidden particles embedded in the pile. For your vacuum to conform to the highest industry standards, make sure that it is certified through the Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) Seal of Approval/ Green Label Vacuum Cleaner Program. Visit www.carpet-rug.org for details and listings. Prompt attention to spots and spills is essential. Some spilled materials will stain or discolor carpet if not removed promptly. Other spills can leave a sticky residue that may result in increased soiling if not removed.
What are the current popular flooring colors?
Floor colors should generally be selected depending on your design, and how the floors integrate with the style and themes of the rooms they’ll be installed in. However, there are some color variations that have emerged as being more popular currently and in previous years. Grays Gray hues have caught a lot of traction in more recent years. Traditionally, flooring trends have geared toward colors that closely resemble natural wood colors. However, with the limitless possibilities that can be reached with staining, different ‘unorthodox’ hues have risen in popularity. Among them, gray hues are largely popular at the moment. They provide a cool and calm ambience, and are excellent with matching with a wide spectrum of furnishings and wall colors. Dark Tones Following the same trends of moving towards colors that aren’t as prevalent among natural woods, really dark tones have emerged as a popular option over the years. Particularly, black or off-black tones have gained significant popularity. They provide a strong and bold statement, and offer little distraction from the other accentual pieces within a space. Light Tones Light tones are great for those who like the natural organic feel of a space. They make a room feel warm and inviting, and provide a perception of more surface area. Specifically, light-colored oak hardwood floors are among the most popular varieties in this category. Summary In conclusion, current trends have moved towards simple hues – such as dark, light, and gray tones – rather than dynamic colors, such as mahogany, that used to be more popular in the past. Trends have also moved away from natural tones that resemble wood, to ones that are more daring and explorative. Regardless of the current trends, the key factor to selecting a color is choosing one that fits the room and the effect you’re trying to achieve.
What type of flooring works best in apartments?
Generally, most flooring varieties are suitable for apartments. However, given the specific unique features of apartment living, some are more preferred over others. Specifically, given that there are often many restrictions on the type of renovations / customizations that are possible in an apartment environment, floors that can be installed using the floating installation method or most specifically preferred. This is because floating installations require less use of power tools, and can be installed and removed much easily – which is often a major requirement for apartment spaces. The most common type of floor used for floating installations is laminate. It’s very easy to do as a DIY project and to complete in a short period of time. It’s also more cost effective, which is often an important feature for those who live in an apartment setting. However, there are other floor types that can be installed using this method, including vinyl as well as some engineered hardwood varieties. In terms of style, the most popular types of floors are engineered hardwood floors in darker shades. This is commonly due to the fact that traditionally, most apartments use light color parquet floors. Dark shaded hardwood floors tend to contrast this style significantly, which brings a lot of unique character to apartment spaces. Regardless of which type of flooring you choose for the apartment, it’s most important to consider how easy the floor is to install – which is why any flooring variety that can be installed using the floating method are most preferred.
What is the toughest type of wood?
To understand which type of wood is the toughest or strongest, it’s important to understand how to the hardness of wood is measured. It’s commonly measured using the Janka Hardness Test, which measures the force needed to push a small steel ball (0.444” diameter) halfway into the wood. The wood’s pounds-force or lbf is then measured on the Janka Hardness scale, and the higher the lbf, the stronger the wood. The strongest type of wood known comes from the lignum vitae tree (Guaiacum sanctum), which is native across many areas, including parts of South-East Asia, Central America, and The Carribean. However, this tree is considered to be in threatened, condition, and isn’t typically used for flooring. In regards to wood varieties that are typically used for flooring, some of the strongest types include:
- Brazilian Cherry
- Hard Maple
- White Oak
- Red Oak
What type of flooring is water resistant
In many applications, it’s important that the floors you install are water resistant. This is most important for rooms such as basements and washrooms, which are often under conditions of increased moisture. The best water resistant floor options include vinyl and tiles.